Rolex Submariner Series 116613LB-0003

Bridging utility with opulence, the two-tone ref. 116613 is the ultimate expression of relaxed luxury.

The Rolex Submariner might be the most recognizable watch in the world, and when crafted in two-tone steel and yellow gold like this ref. 116613, the Submariner becomes even more so an icon of serious luxury. We love the six-digit Submariners from this era for the refined case and bracelets, the ceramic bezel insert, the svelte 13mm thickness, and the venerable 3135 automatic winding movement with date and 48-hour power reserve.

In 2020, Rolex released a new, slightly larger 41mm Submariner with slimmer lugs, a wider bracelet, as well as the new (to the Sub) 3230 movement. While Rolex is easily the most conservatively incremental brand when it comes to updating its classic designs, some collectors felt that the new Sub for Submariner went – however microscopically – a little too far. And so, literally overnight, the 40mm “six-digit” Submariners like this 116613 have become a “classic design” that savvy collectors are already targeting.

However, we can’t help but hope this watch has a very public life on the wrist because it’s gorgeous to behold, incredibly durable and water-resistant, as precise as any mechanical watch being made today, and will look great with any attire for any occasion. A dive watch certainly can work wonders with a tux or evening gown – provided it’s a two-tone Submariner.

Rolex changed the game when introducing the Submariner in 1953. The model helped meet the demand for dive watches, which were growing in popularity thanks to the sport becoming more widespread. However, the Submariner became equally attractive outside the diving community among those who were looking for a sporty fashion accessory. Over the years, the Submariner has continued to straddle this line of function, form, and fashion. It’s been put to the test by countless explorers, like the legendary Auguste Piccard, while also being seen on the wrists of celebrities around the world.

Since the Submariner’s inception, Rolex has consistently upgraded and updated it with the latest technology, all while staying true to its original design. One of the first updates came in the late 1960s, when the brand added a date display to the dial. By the mid-1970s, the Submariner models began showing many of the attributes we see today, like the transition of the Submariner text on the dial from red to white, the addition of sapphire crystal in place of acrylic, a new case design that increased the model’s water resistance to 300 meters, and an upgraded movement offering quick-set date functionality.

Eventually, the Submariner led the dive watch’s ascent from tool to luxury item during the 1970s and 80s. By that time, the world’s most sophisticated jets setters were rocking Submariners all day long, putting their casual but rugged – and largely preppy – aesthetic on display in settings where more formal watches one reigned.